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I PITY THE COLOURBLIND

5:51 PM Reporter: the clutterer 0 Responses

You ever hear stories about diets where you can only eat foods of a certain colour? Well, French art director Emilie Guelpa is making that a bit easier (and more appealing) with these Pantone shots for Fricote (which we wrote about a few minutes back).


Check out Guelpa's amazing work at Griottes, where you can sort through her "Palette Culinaire" easily with colour tags.

Joe.


HIGH RESOLUTION: ZOU BISOU BISOU (OR: HEARTS OF PALM SALAD, CHICKEN KIEV AND A PARFAIT)

11:45 AM Reporter: the clutterer 0 Responses

I have dutifully noted that boiled hot dog wieners are not an appropriate way to celebrate the end of a too-long hiatus (which is ongoing for our poor gal Betty Draper), and thus this week found us joining the well-coiffed pack of other Mad Men fans in diving headlong into recipes once forgotten. Hearts of palm salad, Chicken Kiev, an impromptu parfait – all resurrected by Don Draper’s devastating charm. That man’s powers are limitless…unless you’re talking about sexing up a baked bean ballet.



Sardi’s Hearts of Palm Salad

This recipe was taken from the Unofficial Mad Men Cookbook, an interesting read into the period of that time, particularly for those that don’t have time to scour vintage bookshops for old Good Housekeeping recipes.

Sardi’s should need no introduction, but here’s a vintage ad featuring the restaurant:


For the salad:

6 lettuce leaves
6 whole pieces of hearts of palm (generally 1 can’s worth), drained and sliced into bite-size chunks
6 thin slices of pimiento (which are amazingly hard to find; sub in roasted red bell peppers if you need)
6 springs watercress
2 cigarettes (optional)

For the vinaigrette:

½ a dill pickle, finely chopped (about 2 tbsps worth)(I used less, based on how much vinegar is involved)
1 tbsp finely chopped onion
1 tsp finely chopped (near minced) capers
1 tbsp finely chopped parsley
1 tbsp finely chopped pimiento (again, sub in red bell peppers if needed)
1 tsp finely chopped hard-boiled egg white
1 tsp salt (or to taste)
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup white vinegar

For the vinaigrette: add all ingredients together and mix well. Refrigerate.

Assemble the salad as best you can – bonus points if you can get that 60s plating esthetic just right (I’m thinking the watercress for garnish). Stir up the vinaigrette and dress at will. Smoking during preparation will only enhance the intrigue.

The Chicken Kiev


I won’t get into the odd history of this dish in too much detail, considering how well Alton Brown camps it up. We also took the recipe from Mr. Brown, though instead of frying we opted for baking (having a smoke alarm right beside the stove will do that).

8 tbsp unsalted butter
1 tsp dried parsley
1 tsp dried tarragon
1 tsp kosher salt
¼ tsp black pepper
4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
2 large whole eggs, beaten with 1tsp of water
2 cups breadcrumbs (use panko if frying), plus ¼ cup for filling
If frying, vegetable oil
4 cigarettes
1 identity crisis

For the compound butter, combine the butter, herbs, salt and pepper in a mixer, then place on plastic wrap or waxed paper and roll into a small log for freezing. Ice it until frozen.

Flatten the chicken breasts between two sheets of plastic wrap to about 1/8 inch thickness, and season as necessary with salt and pepper (go sparingly since there’s salt/pepper in the butter).

Lay one chicken breast flat on a new piece of plastic wrap and place ¼ of the compound butter and 1tbsp of breadcrumbs into the centre. Use the plastic wrap to roll in ends of the chicken breast into a log, encasing the butter completely. (We used toothpicks as well to help out.) Refrigerate for a couple of hours if you have the time; this will help keep it from unravelling while cooking.

Place egg and water mixture into a pan for coating the chicken breast, then coat with the breadcrumbs at will.

If you’re frying, heat ½ inch of the oil in a sauté pan until it reaches 375F. If baking, heat the oven to the same temperature. Cook the chicken breasts until golden brown, and let rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Smoking during preparation will only enhance its intrigue. An extra glass of scotch will erase those painful memories. Not even your parents love you, Dick Whitman.


Considering I’m the It Girl has a real aversion to Jello, she dreamed up this parfait, which requires:

Vanilla pudding
Canned fruit
Whipped cream
Crumbled cookies
5lbs sexual devastation

Put yourself into a Betty Draper state of mind, and get premade everything. Of course, since this usually goes against everything we currently do, we had no idea that Jello Pudding cups were discontinued (or at least impossible to find), but that instamix is still avail. We still made our own whipped cream though, cause that fake petroleum product stuff is just too hard (and expensive) to stomach.

Construct it all in layers. Serve with ambition: as they say, “stability is just a step between success and failure”!


Joe.


DROPS OF GOD

12:27 AM Reporter: the clutterer 0 Responses

"It's powerful, but I also felt a melting sweepness and a sharp rush of sourness. Just as the soft, husky vocals of Queen are wrapped in deep guitar sounds and heavy drums. It seems somehow like classical, but it isn't. It's something modern - yeah, it's Queen all right."

I usually come across descriptives like "floral" or "vibrant" or other nice sounding words that don't quite help anyone when reading about wines, but it's only Drops of God that drew analogies between a 2011 Chateau Mont-Perat and Queen.

The manga - part of a subset of garume (or 'gourmet') manga, written by the brother-sister team known as Tadashi Agi, and illustrated by Shu Okimoto - follows Shizuku, the estranged son of Yutaka, a famous Japanese wine critic who has left a wine collection in his estate worth millions. When he passes, an up-and-coming wine snob (who somehow got Yutaka to adopt him right beforehand) challenges Shizuku for the bounty: the winner must correctly identify 13 wines that Yutaka has chosen, dubbed the "Drops of God."


While it might seem like just another crazy bit of Japanese pop culture, Drops of God has had more impact on wine sales than anyone could've ever guessed a comic book would have, increasing and influencing Asian wine sales dramatically (Decanter magazine called it "arguably the most influential wine publication for the past 20 years"). Wine sales in Japan jumped 130% in the first year of the manga's printing; in Korea, 150%. The owners of Chateau Mont-Perat, that Bohemian Rhapsody of all wines, had to unplug their phone from ringing off the hook after being featured in the book. In Taiwan, dozens of cases of wines featured in the book were sold out in mere days.

One winery wasn't too pumped about the increased exposure. After the 2003 Chateau le Puy was featured in Drops of God, orders went through the roof:

Château le Puy owner Jean-Pierre Amoreau’s response to this fame, in an era of Bordeaux primeur “wine futures” speculation, is amazing. Recently he announced that he was ceasing international sales of his 2003 vintage in order to deter speculation and to retain a small stock for his loyal customers. Even this did not stop two Japanese tourists who traveled from Paris to knock on the château door to ask if they could purchase two bottles.

Volumes of Drops of God have been released by Vertical in English translations over the past year. Pick it up and drop "Under Pressure" while you kick back some vino.

Joe.


HIGH RESOLUTION: OSSO BUCO & GRILLED LETTUCE HEARTS & TRIALS & TRIBULATIONS

12:58 AM Reporter: the clutterer 0 Responses
I'm a big fan of Ferran Adria's The Family Meal, which ditches all the foams and spherifications for some simple home cooking that even yours truly can figure out. The recipes are set out in 3 course meals and gives proportions for feeding 2, 6, and so on, taking all sorts of guess work out of the equation. And the most useful thing? Each meal sets out how far in advance you have to do everything, so that you know not to watch all of High Fidelity on tv and start making dessert so that you have the oven free for the main course and that you have that movie on DVD anyways so why be so lazy or get off my back already Adria geesh.

We mixed and matched a few dishes for tonight's dinner, making all three courses because we had a guest to share the gluttony with. While most everything went off without a hitch, the main thing we forgot was to take pictures of everything. Of the three courses - grilled lettuce hearts, osso bucco, and coconut flan - we only took a photo of the latter. Since flan isn't usually the most, uh, picturesque, here's our photoshopped flan album cover instead (bonus points if you can name which artist we paid homage to).


Here's the recipes (all for feeding 2):

Grilled Lettuce Hearts
8 sprigs worth of mint leaves
1 tsp of wholegrain mustard
1 tbsp sherry vinegar
1 egg yolk
1/3 cup olive oil, and a bit more for frying
2 lettuce hearts

Put the mint leaves and mustard in a blender, and add the sherry vinegar and egg yolk. Slowly add the oil while blending, until the mint is finely chopped and the dressing is nicely emulsified.

Cut the lettuce hearts in half and season with a bit of salt. Fry with a bit of olive oil until golden on both sides. Afterwards, cut each in half again, then serve with the dressing you just made.

Osso Bucco
1 tsp carrots, chopped into 1/4 inch cubes
1 tsp celery, chopped into 1/4 inch cubes
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 veal shanks, about 9oz each
about 1.5 tbsp of flour
about 1.5 tbsp of butter
1/3 white wine
2 dried bay leaves
2 tsp tomato sauce
2.25 cups beef stock (there's separate recipes too for the tomato sauce and beef stock, which I was just too lazy to make)

For the gremolata:
2 tsp flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 lemon
1 orange

Preheat the oven to 400F. Season the veal with salt and pepper. Coat the veal lightly with flour.

Heat a large pan on high with half the butter, brown the veal on both sides and remove. Turn the heat down to medium, add the remaining butter and the carrots. Cook for about a minute, then add the onion, celery, and garlic. Cook for another 10 minutes until tender, stirring frequently.

Deglaze the pan with the white wine, and wait until most of the wine has cooked off. Add the tomato sauce and bay leaves, and cook until thickened, around 10 minutes. Add the veal back into the pan, spoon the vegetables over each piece, and add the beef stock. Cover and cook in the oven for 2 hours or until the meat is tender.

For the gremolata, mix the chopped parsley and garlic, and then grate in the zest of the orange and lemon. Mix well.

When the meat is finished cooking, add the gremolata just before serving.

It goes without saying that a spoon should be offered to enjoy the marrow.

Coconut Flan

Out of the three recipes, this is the one I struggled with the most, as the proportions seemed all slightly off. This serving is meant for 5, though what I ended up with was just enough for 3.

For the caramel:
2 tsp water
2.5 tbsp sugar

For the flan:

2 eggs
1 cup coconut milk
2 and 2/3 cup grated coconut
2 tbsp sugar

Preheat the oven to 350F.

In a saucepan, add the water and the 2.5tbsp sugar on low heat, and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Afterwards, turn the heat up to high, and watch all sorts of bizarre chemical reactions occur, going from syrupy, to flaky, to syrup, to golden...remove from the heat when a nice mahogany brown. Quickly pour into whatever mold you're using, since it will harden quickly as it cools.

Whisk the eggs until frothy. In a separate bowl, whisk the coconut milk, grated coconut and sugar until the sugar is dissolved. Add the eggs and whisk until even, and then pour into the mould. Cover with foil.

Conjure up a bain marie by placing the mould in a roasting pan, and then adding water around the mould until the water comes up halfway up the mould. Bake for about 30 minutes, until the flan is firm to the touch. Chill in the fridge.

When you're ready to serve, loosen the edges with whatever you got, then turn the flan out of the mould and onto the serving plate. If you have any extra coconut milk left, spoon that over for that extra...coconut.

Check out Ferran Adria's The Family Meal o'er at Phaidon.

Joe.


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